Here, Bari’s elegant side with its upmarket shops seems a whole world away. You catch glimpses into kitchens and see women preparing fresh orecchiette, or watch them cleaning the white paving slabs with waste paper and bleach. Here, the housewives of Bari hang out their fresh-smelling laundry on their balconies as if the quarter were one big house. But there’s no sign of traditional housewife-types in aprons – the women here are always highly styled, already stepping out in their tight-fitting jeans and high heels in the early morning, impeccably made up.

Out on their balconies you see them styling their hair with incredible professionalism – never forgetting, of course, to wave occasionally to the men zipping by on scooters. How could it be otherwise? And, of course, none of these kamikaze two-wheeler rides is ever properly insured.

Bari’s old town is the right place for a gastronomic excursion, too. I wander around between the houses and the courtyards, while Bari’s local hero warbles a fitting soundtrack for me – only far too loud, of course. Suddenly I find myself standing before the words Assaporando le Delizie Pugliesi, which means something along the lines of “Enjoy the delicacies of Apulia”.

These words have simply been inscribed directly onto the white plaster – which piques my curiosity, so I enter the small shop adjacent. Wonderful green olive oil from the region, dried tomatoes, peperoncini, home-made preserved specialities, and naturally the ever-present fresh orecchiette. And then I spot friselle – the traditional fisherman’s bread made from semolina. Antipasti in Apulia would be inconceivable without it.

This isn’t usually my favourite type of shop, but this time I find myself leaving it with a whole bag packed full of tasty souvenirs. In the Tana del Polpo trattoria, in a side street where Bari’s old town meets the Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, just a few steps from the Chiesa di San Michele, they’re selling delightful cartocci, panini and fritture di polpo to take away. I order a panino with red tuna and some of the famous pistachios from Bronte, and head off to the Corso Vittorio Emanuele II.

Here you discover a completely different side to the city. You’d think you’d suddenly landed in Miami – rows of high palm trees line the streets, the beach promenade bursts with well-tended flowerbeds, and men proudly sport Panama hats. You could believe you’d been transported to the set of the next Hollywood blockbuster.

After sundown, Bari’s hip nightlife gets underway in the Umbertino Quarter, the triangle between the Corso Cavour, the Via Imbriani and the beach promenade up as far as the semicircle-shaped viewing point in front of the Piazza Armando. Upmarket wine bars and bistros, all of them stylishly decorated and well frequented, nestle together beneath beautiful art nouveau palaces, the meeting places for Bari’s local scene. For me, it’s love at first sight with Speakeasy (in Largo Giordano Bruno).

As the name already suggests, the restaurant is themed on the United States’ Prohibition era – with a very long bar made of heavy wood and beautiful retro chic objects everywhere. I’m blown away by the cocktail-names – It’s Pear Thyme Punch, Vieux Carré, The Day After Tomorrow – but finally opt for a glass of wine – from the region, of course. A delightful silky Primitivo di Manduria red.

A bit later at Faros Beer Cafè, I find a younger clientele, sipping happily on colourful cocktails and contemplating next weekend’s party in Monopoli. The KGB Katzuti Garage Bari in the Via Salvatore Cognetti offers a perfect mix of bikers’ hangout and fashionable New York hipster club.

When you see Bari’s upmarket quarter, you could imagine that the rich and the beautiful from the 1980s were still there, with jewel-bedecked, fur-coated women, whose chauffeurs were usually waiting for them in their dark cars outside hairdressers’ salons. Gianfranco at Giuseppe Bozzi is today’s top hairdresser for the ladies of Bari, all of whom leave his salon – and his capable hands – with artful curls à la Charlie’s Angels, and rigorously lightened ends. Gianfranco’s balayage is by far the new hair trend in the Umbertino quarter.

Alongside his hairstyling talents, he has found a way to further secure his customers’ loyalty: at his GF Luxury Vintage store – just a few steps from his hair salon – you can shop for genuine vintage brand treasures. Gianfranco’s range includes barely used Chanel bags and almost new Hermès scarves.

Bari’s fashion scene has two major fixed points: Mimma Ninni and Dante 5. Both shops offer sheer luxury and are particularly sought after among high-end trendsetters. I decide on Mimma Ninni, as it’s more streetwear-oriented, boasts an extraordinary selection of clothing and is always on the lookout for up-and-coming brands.

Furnishings store Corderia is the next destination on my shopping trip, an emporium that clearly furnishes not just Bari but also the grand villas in Monopoli, Ostuni, Conversano and Locorotondo – the holiday and weekend destinations for Bari’s inhabitants. Corderia is like a big sitting room with velvety sofas and outsize cushions, plaster sculptures, ancient oriental lamps and stacks of wonderful ethnic knickknacks.

Couples, families and friends meet here to drink a chilled beer in one of the many bars decked out in cool europallet design, or play beach volleyball, or take part in one of the other numerous sports options on the beach.

The sea at Bari is blue, crystal-clear and very salty – in other words, completely different to how my envious and super-patriotic grandmother recounted, who would always say: “There must be a good reason why everybody always comes to visit us here at Salento!” I certainly wouldn’t wish to deny the beauty of her home region with its striking cliffs, but I’ve swum in the sea at Bari, and I have to say – it’s obvious she’d never done so.

di Veronica Gabbuti